Let's be real....the easiest way to do this, is to make your way to the nearest upholstery shop, fork over some cash and say thank you.
Next thing, if you're by the book? This tutorial is probably going to make you cry...
Wing-back chairs are not a really great starting point for amateurs but if you're anything like me - part of the fun involved in DIY projects is the experience, so I was all for just muddling through. Particularly because the chair only cost $13.00
Before I get too deep into this thing, I must give credit to some of the ideas in this post where it's due. The reason I tackled this chair in the first place was because of Jenny Komenda over at Little Green Notebook. Her upholstery tutorial was exhaustive to say the least and made me think it wouldn't be insane to take a swing at it.
The plan is for me to supplement by letting you know what I did and did not do...
This was my challenge...
Isn't it lovely? Also worth noting I now have beautiful floors in my dining room. Celebratory moment for getting rid of concrete floors.
The First Step:
Stripping the chair... I had a few tools I used for this portion of the job including
A smallish flat head screw driver
Needle-nose pliers
A container for discarded tacks and staples
A good supply of enthusiasm, also bandaids help. You might consider some hydrogen-peroxide and butterfly bandages as well.
Just kidding. Ish.
Ok, so one thing Jenny suggests in her blog post is to photograph the chair as you go along, document, document, document. She is a smart lady - having pictures to reference as you begin to put fabric back on your chair is very helpful. Particularly if you photograph the areas of a that might be more difficult to reupholster. For example...
I took detail photographs every chance I got so I wouldn't be dependent on my memory
to make the chair look like it wasn't completely rigged.
Step Two:
Remove the cording on your chair. Some chairs don't have cording, some have trim or fabric tacks, whatever your chair might have - get it off.
Take pictures as you go so you can see where they had the cording/trim meet, whether they had it glued, or sewed in particular places or just wrapped. It'll come in handy.
No picture for this step because I don't like to follow my own advice.
Step Three:
This is where Jenny would probably shake her head and bemoan my decision to write this post... I differ from her greatly in that in retrospect, I would not have removed the fabric from my chair. You can see in the photo how I began to do this .
What happened is that the structure of my chair - the only really great thing it had going for it, began to crumble. I was still able to remove tacks from the chair, but when I noticed the issue I was creating by pulling the stuffing out I opted to leave the staples securing the fabric alone, insuring a structured chair to re-cover.
A perk I can vouch for is that if you choose to leave the fabric attached you won't encounter the issues involved in re-stuffing. These range anywhere from a chair back that resembles a retiree's cottage-cheese thighs to a tired looking beer-gut effect achieved by not packing tight enough. Both are worth avoiding.
What you should basically be left with is a chair stripped of any cording and excess tacks not securing fabric to the wooden frame. Just go stick the seat cushion in a closet somewhere, you won't need it for a while.
Step Four (Last Step in This Post)
Paint your frame! My chair required some sanding to rough up the poly coat enough to prime - if you don't do this the primer won't stick and if you use a water-based paint it will just peel off.
I used three coats of white, water-based primer and then used a water-based coat of white paint to finish it off.
Semi-gloss was my pick and just in case you don't have a particular brand of paint you like - avoid Glidden. I got awful results painting natural wood with Glidden, horrible coverage.
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Full disclosure here...leaving the fabric on the chair is not correct reupholstery protocol. When it's done correctly you should technically be able to remove the fabric and put a different material back on without losing the shape of the chair. The people at the upholstery shop can do it...obviously it isn't rocket science, but they charge you for it.
This is just what worked for me, I've tried it on a few different things and when I found myself in a pinch needing a chair - I liked this approach best.
SO, that being said - the next post will simply delve deeper into my wonky half-crazed methods, I'll show you how I attached the fabric and then the cording. I'll be painfully honest with what worked and didn't work and hopefully it'll work for you.
That's all for this post - believe it or not these steps alone can be very time consuming if you're making a conscious effort not to give yourself multiple puncture wounds and/or lacerations.
Be patient and don't get sloppy - if you aren't having fun, give it a break. I put this chair away for 2 or 3 months between painting the frame and putting on the new fabric and came at it with renewed enthusiasm when I pulled it back out.
Shout out for renewed enthusiasm.
If you give this a shot please show me pictures! I'd love to see how your chair turns out...
- Rae